…for a Perfomance at the end of the month.

Freya has been hard at work over the past couple of weeks learning new dances and practising old ones. Sandeep has organised a performance at the end of the month in Nizamabad. It will be at the Rajiv Gandi Auditorium on the 25th of March.

The programme Sandeep has proposed has Freya dancing two items, then Soumya, Sandeep’s sisters dancing Krishna Sabdam, then again Freya two more items.

Bhaja Maanasa
Mohana Ragam – Adi Talam

Puja Dance
Ragamalika – Adi Talam

Krishna Sabdam
(Soumya Bodhanker)
Mohana Ragam – Mishra Chapu

Tarangam
Mohana Ragam – Adi Talam

Mahalakshmi Ashtakam
Ragam – Adi Talam

Sandeep’s friend, Pavan did the make-up for the photo shoot, which was done for the invitation for the permance in Nizamabad on March 25.

It is quite a disgrace that we have not yet written about Sandeep’s 25th birthday, which fell as far back as February 25! How time flies…I am trying to make it up to him now with some photos and a small report.

The truth is that he was frantically busy finding a venue for his wedding, and also organize all that goes with a beautiful wedding celebration. So we were in his hometown of Nizamabad on the day, and it was lovely for his family to spend time with him on his special day. Freya and Soumya made birthday cards for him the night before.

Soumya did a sweet little puja to her brother in the morning which included an oil rub, and Freya and I honored him with a traditional shawl presentation. Freya got to share his kumkum with him…

While Sandeep was busy organizing so many wedding related things, we were invited to a wedding of Sandeep’s mothers colleague. It was a very traditional South Indian wedding (of course), and it did put Freya and I into the mood for weddings! At the end of the ceremony the bride and groom poured large quantities of rice, and colored styrofoam balls on each others heads, which was very lovely and joyful. We got to go with Sandeep and give our best wishes to the happy couple.

I was getting into quite an embroidery frenzy while we were in Nizamabad, as everyone was busy, and Soumya kindly taught Freya a really lovely dance item on Shri Ganesha, even though she was busy preparing for her year 11 exams. Sandeep’s mum took me to a wonderful shop which sold amazing beads, sequins, and embroidered sari borders- and it got me even more inspired. Here is an example of a beautiful dress a neighbour had embroidered after getting inspiration from Sandeep’s mother.

We had the most beautiful home cooked food prepared by Sandeep’s mother, and the celebration was not complete without a visit to the famous ice-cream parlour which makes the best fruit salad with custard and ice cream, unmatched anywhere! We hope Sandeep enjoyed his birthday, even if it was busy for him. But we know for sure he LOVED the ice cream!

We wish Sandeep every blessing for the year ahead, which we know is going to be very great and life changing for him, as he enter the new phase of married life! We know all his birthdays will only get better from now on, and we hope that we may somehow be able to celebrate more of them with him in the future!

I have been taking Carnatic vocal singing lessons for a week now. Sandeep’s vocal music teacher just adores Sandeep, and I almost feel like my lesson is an excuse for Sir Gopinath to see Sandeep, whenever he brings me for lessons in the mornings. Sir Gopinath is fiercely protective of Sandeep, and always asks him how his wedding preparations are going, offering him help and advice (calling him many times daily)!

Anyway, Gopinath Sir is a senior lecturer at the Telugu university here in Hyderabad. He has a deep knowledge of Carnatic music, which stems from his father, who was a famous Veena player. He has many beautiful Veenas in his home, where his brothers and their families occupy the various floors of the building. When we first went to meet him Freya first did her obligatory dance performance, and I sang a few songs in Hindi, Marathi and English, which the whole family seemed to enjoy. Then his 12 year old daughter sang a Carnatic piece, which just happened to be one of my favorite songs of 2006 from a Remember Shakti album – it is called Giriraja Sudha Tanaya, which is about Shri Ganesha. She rendered it so beautifully, and I am hoping I may get to the stage where I can learn it too.

But maybe that is just wishful thinking. He is giving me a crash course, and I have so far learnt a lot about the theory behind Carnatic music and the very complex total of 35 different rhythm cycles. I am trying to master the main 7 patterns, which I have to learn by heart and sing in normal (1st) speed, as well as double and quadruple speed, while firmly beating the rhythm with hands and fingers in an equally complex pattern, which sometimes seems to mis-match. It is quite logical really, but can only be mastered with LOTS of practise. Also I am working on singing exercises in a scale with several flat notes, by which you learn to jump automatically in 1 1/2 as well as 2 1/2 note intervals, which really requires a lot of practise and dedication! Last class he told me to ring him and organize the next class for when I have done some serious practise – I think the message is clear…. not sure how far I will get with it, but it is a fascinating science indeed. Better get practising….

At the Salar Jung Museum in central Hyderabad, is a visiting exhibition of the Jewels of the Nizam. It was meant to finish one month ago, and the exhibits were to go back to the vault in the Central Bank Of India, but due to some bomb scares in Mumbai and Delhi, it was decided the jewels were safest in Hyderabad for the time being. So this was our luck, and we braved the high security and the price tag of 500 rupees entry for foreigners, to take a look. We were not allowed to take anything in but our tickets, and had a full body search twice before entering the exhibition.

The jewels were sold to the government of India from the 8th Nizam in 1996. He had inherited an powerless empty throne from his grandfather the 7th Nizam in the sixties, well after Indian independence. His forefathers had for 7 generations ruled the area with the British, and were close allies. But now the 8th Nizam had to fund the paying back of some of his debts, which included a run down cattle station in WA, where he resided for some time. There was an ancient prophecy that the lineage of the Mogul Nizams would last until the 7th Nizam, and thereafter would cease to be. Certainly the 7th Nizam was the last Nizam to reside in his court in Hyderabad with his 156 wives and hundreds of natural and adopted children. He was a simple man, who ate of basic metal plates, although he was swimming in silver and gold cutlery. He also wore the same shirt for up to one week. (I guess his only excess was in the wives department). In sharp contrast his son, the 6th Nizam only ever wore the same shirt for one day in his life. He owned the worlds largest wardrobe, which is located in the Chowmohalla Palace in Hyderabad. He had in his time of rule purchased the South African Jacob Diamond, through a secret deal in Europe, which resulted in a court case.

At the start of the exhibition there were some fascinating photographs of some of the many wives of the 7th Nizam at court, bedecked in their incredible jewels, made principally of gold, diamonds, emeralds and pearls. Each wife has a complete set including huge necklaces, bangles, earrings, hair ornaments, and gigantic gold and diamond encrusted anklets. The jewels were originally stored in anything from huge crates to cardboard shoe boxes, and there was literally truckloads of the stuff. In fact the last Nizam found the Jacob Diamond, one of the largest diamonds in the world of more than 250 karat, in his fathers shoe, where he had placed it for safe-keeping. The new Nizam then used it as a paper weight for a long time, not knowing its full value. This diamond was on display in the exhibition. It is even today difficult to put an exact value on it.

Apart from the display cabinet containing the Jacob Diamond, there were around 30 cabinets, each filled with kilos of gold and diamond jewels. The diamond mine on the outskirts of Hyderabad, at Golconda, was famous for its diamonds, and it is from here that most of the diamonds in the jewels originate. But the Nizam’s purchased rubies as far away as from Bolivia. They would not pass up on good gems if they could find them. Most of the jewellery was made of gold with encrusted diamonds, many of them raw and uncut, which was interesting to see, as they really very much resembled glass. They were so huge, that had someone worn a necklace today, I am sure I would have thought that this was a bit gaudy, and not real.

Many of the necklaces had large set stones and drops made from raw emeralds, from where I imagine green became a favorite colour of the Moslems. The ladies anklets were incredibly huge and heavy, and encrusted with diamonds, and had pearl edging, and enamel patterns on the reverse side. One ceremonial belt (very useful) of the Nizam weighed 1.5 kilos, and was completely covered in diamonds. Another favorite design theme is the 9 precious gems, which is still very much in fashion here in India. It is thought that these 9 gems are very good for the whole body if worn against the skin. The 9 gems include diamond, pearl, red coral, emerald, ruby sapphire, moonstone and 2 others, which I have not yet worked out. I see many people wearing rings with these, but in the Nizams collection there were HUGE bracelets, and brooches. It was very interesting to see all the designs, as I can now clearly picture where the origin of many contemporary Indian jewelry pieces have come from. It is now easy to see why they call Hyderabad the City of Pearls – they should really add gems to that as well!

The whole collection was so dazzling, that we almost had sore eyes when we finally emerged from this real-life Alladin’s cave. Sandeep said I am a bit sick of looking at diamonds!… A friendly tour guide then told us that what we had just seen was only 2% of the entire jewellery collection of the Nizams! We were wondering if the rest was all hiding in Swiss vaults, and as the 8th Nizam left Hyderabad often having no great interest in the place, the palace was most likely looted by courtiers and anyone with access. Many people come to the exhibition claiming to be grandsons and daughters of the Nizam, which is easy to believe, but difficult to prove no doubt. Some of the wives now live in the US, probably benefiting from the wealth of their jewels. A fascinating exhibition indeed, and it was easy to imagine how everyday it must have felt to be drooping in diamonds, pearls and emeralds in the court of the Nizam of Hyderabad.

Who was Salar Jung?
Salar Jung was a prime minister to the Nizam (king) of Hyderabad. He was a nobleman who owned lots of land, and collected lots of taxes. He was a very good friend of the British colonial rulers. Together they ruled Hyderabad and its surroundings. Salar Jung loved collecting art and artefacts from all over the world. The Salar Jung museum displays all his possessions. In the museum there are photos of him near the pyramids of Egypt. He was also a member of the British Masons. He was awarded a medal by Queen Victoria of England, and was given the title of His Exalted Highness.

What did he collect?
His enormous 35,000 piece antique collection includes: pure gold-rimmed wine glasses, English tea sets, silver cutlery, European furniture, Venetian glass chandeliers, European paintings, a vast collection of clocks and many other European things which filled his palaces. He also had a wide collection of Asian arts including: mogul miniature paintings, old brass and stone sculptures, carved South Indian furniture, Chinese and Japanese carvings in ivory, wooden toy soldiers, weapons, daggers and several types of carriages.

What I saw in the Ivory Room
It was sad seeing a whole set of chairs made from ivory, which was a gift from King Louis the XVI of France. There were boxes with very intricate carvings, and beautiful figurines from Japan. I also saw three statues of Jesus on the cross. It was very surprising to see a mat woven with thin strips of ivory. Outside there was a whole carriage made of ivory!

Salar Jung’s Swords and Daggers
Salar Jung’s ceremonial swords and daggers were displayed in the Jade Room. There was a sword with a jade handle covered in diamonds, and another encrusted with rubies and emeralds.
There were also cutlery sets with jade and agate handles.

The Clock collection
The Kings and the Queens of Europe loved collecting clocks, and so did Salar Jung. Salar Jung had so many clocks you need one whole massive room to display them all. There were at least five or more large grandfather clocks in the room, and also three different cukoo clocks displayed. Some of the more interesting clocks showed the day, date, month as well as the time.

My favourite part of the museum was the seeing the furniture of England and France from the 18th century and the palanquins that carried the Royal families around.

It took us one whole day to see just half of Salar Jung’s enormous collection.

Freya in a turban! Applied by Kamal’s father, Vimal.

On Saturday February 10, Kamal and her father arrived from the UK, to meet with Sandeep and settle on arrangements for their engagement and upcoming marriage. We prepared our home and got it looking nice, and before we knew it it was time for Freya and Sandeep to literally race to the airport, where our guests arrived earlier than expected. I was at home cooking pasta sauce, just in case they were hungry (after eating on the plane all the way). I still looked hot and bothered when they arrived at our door much sooner than expected. It was a very happy reunion for Kamal and Sandeep, who had not seen each other for quite some months. It was also great to meet her father.

Kamal arrived with one whole suitcase full of pasta, pasta sauce, sundried tomatoes, pesto, Swiss chocolate, Nutella and countless more treats. We were all exited. Freya was soon showing Kamal’s father what she had been learning, and he was very thrilled and delighted at her performance. He did not know very much about Kuchipudi at all, so we were eagerly filling him in on all our experiences, which was quite a handful of information for him I am sure. As everyone was feeling quite energetic we went for a drive into town, and to the IMAX theatre and shopping complex. Unfortunately it was one of the busiest Saturday’s of the month, the second Saturday of the month being a holiday. This was a little overwhelming, and so too the driving style of India. Sandeep has incredibly quick reactions, and drove the car very confidently, but as happened with us before we became accustomed to the Indian driving style, the imaginary brake came out quite a few times. I was a little worried about how this would be seen by his father-in-law to be. I think everyone slept like logs after that.

After a very early departure from Nizamabad, Sandeep’s parents arrived here the next morning to meet and greet, and they had a nice talk with Kamal’s father, eager to get to know each other. We took some lovely photos of the new family, in which Freya was very much included. They left again in the afternoon, and by evening the subject of an official engagement party had been discussed; and after talks over the phone with Kamal’s mother at home in England, it was discovered that for Kamal the best time astrologically to be engaged was before 9pm the following day. For Sandeep the best time would be starting around 9pm that same day, and so at 10pm they reached the conclusion that everything had to be done within 24 hours! That included arrangements for the engagement ceremony. I think Sandeep was very busy on the phone all night…

So on Monday morning, when we were all finally washed and fed, we headed off to shop for engagement rings and sari and clothing gifts for all parties in the families. Shopping is always a time consuming exercise, and especially finding suitable rings in the right size. Sandeep chose a beautiful traditional South Indian engagement ring and sari for Kamal, and she chose a ring (She actually had to buy a ring shaped piece of gold, which would later be made into a ring, as they did not have Sandeep’s size ready made) and suit for Sandeep, which was very sweet indeed. By the time this was finished it was already late afternoon. We headed North out of town at about 5pm, and stopped for Domino’s Pizza (Sandeep had not eaten a scrap all day at this stage) and also at the amazing Dadu’s sweet store, where we bought many beautiful cashew based sweets. Once we were on the highway Sandeep started to fade severely. The tiredness after all the excitement, as well as lack of sleep hit him, and he could hardly keep his eyes open. After a 20 minute pit stop, during which I was seriously considering taking over the wheel, he managed to perk up, and helped on by all of us singing Bhajans (devotional folk songs) in the back of the car we made it to Nizamabad at 8.30pm.

As we parked the car I looked up and saw the whole apartment block leaning out to catch a glimpse of Sandeep’s bride-to-be. The Shennai player was in full swing, and at this point it was clear (as I had suspected) that Sandeep’s family had really gone to town over this very happy occasion. In fact 100 people had been patiently waiting for 2 hours on the rooftop, where the engagement was to take place. Kamal accompanied by her father were seated at the rooftop in 2 chairs, where they were welcomed, after which they exchanged sari and suit during a Brahmin ceremony, with mantras recited at break-neck speed. I got the feeling the priest wanted this over and done with rather quickly… Kamal’s father requested that the mantras be said with feeling or not at all – this was attempted, but soon the Brahmin was back to his verbal overflow. Freya really enjoyed her role as engagement-bridesmaid but had trouble staying part of the ceremony, as she got continuously swamped by a lady in a pink sari.

Kamal and Sandeep went back downstairs to get changed, and we enjoyed seeing Kamal in her beautiful new green and red sari, which suited her so well. A stunning fresh flower ornament had been made for her hair and plait, which looked stunning with her attire. Sandeep also looked very dashing in his long suit covered in embroidery.

While this was happening a huge feast was being served to all the guests upstairs, and I took some photos of Sandeep’s grandmother, and other close friends who had made it to the event at such short notice.

When the happy couple returned, the rest of the long Hindu ceremony was thankfully simplified, and Kamal and Sandeep sweetly presented 2 beautiful flower garlands to each other, and then the rings. There was much clapping and a steady stream of well wishers came to hug them, and throw flower petals on their heads. After the ceremony, Kamal’s father requested we all sit and meditate together, and this was really a magical part of the evening, connecting us all with each other in a beautiful silence.

We were all out like little lights after such an incredibly eventful day, and everyone was happy.

Early the following morning we left Freya, the little night owl, asleep in bed and headed a few kilometres out of town to a beautiful place called Sarangpur. Here is a temple built in the side of a rock face, where a swayambu (self-created) image of Shri Hanuman (devotee of Lord Rama) is carved in the rock. We had already visited this place with Guy and Caspar, and I urged Kamal’s father to see it. He is a beautiful spiritual person, and he really only enjoys places where spirituality is found. He has retired from his work as the Assistant Director and Chief Inspector for Birmingham schools, and spends his life devoted to teaching the science of Sahaja Yoga Meditation to whoever is interested and has the desire to learn. He writes the most moving poetry (which made me cry every time I heard them – so sweet were his words) and every morning we would wake up to the sound of his devotional singing, which was so lovely. It did not take long after arriving at this beautiful place, before he was inspired to meditate. He suggested we get the young temple priests in to join us. Sandeep called out to them, to see if anyone was interested, and one lovely looking youngish man came out. He suggested we go up through the gate to the top of the rocky outcrop, and sit there in the cool breeze. On the way Kamal and Sandeep’s sister Saumya picked 3 beautiful red hibiscus flowers growing naturally there. We sat down on the rock, and Kamal’s father explained the process to the Brahmin. Soon we were all glued to the rock in deep meditation, from which we did not come out for 2 hours! The peace was incredible, and the priest’s face looked so serene and blissful. They were truly magical moments sitting on those beautiful rocks, not wanting to move at all from the spot.

After this wonderful start to the day, we went to the best ice-cream parlour in town, for their very special fruit salad with ice-cream, which everyone loved. Kamal’s father bought a 1/2 litre pack of ice cream to take home for Freya, which she had for breakfast at around midday! In the afternoon we went on a big shopping expedition to the pearl shop, which gave a great rate, and Kamal and her father created many pearl necklaces for everyone in their family. We too could not resist buying a few more strands. In the evening Sandeep’s family invited all the local Sahaja Yoga practitioners over for a music evening. We had a powerful collective meditation, which Kamal’s father lead in a great fashion sending us all into deep state. We had many songs after this, and it was very joyful. Sandeep’s family particularly enjoyed it very much.

On the Wednesday we waited for the newly made pearl necklaces to be delivered, and after lunch we said our goodbyes and headed back towards Hyderabad. We stopped on the way at a lovely spot, in a kind of pit, where slate and rocks were being cut out of the ground. While the rest of our gang meditated, Freya had to find a place to go to the toilet. But there was no completely private place, and I was no longer bothered, so I showed Freya how one can wave and do one’s business at the same time. Freya was in deep shock. The light was fading casting an atmospheric light over the highway.

The next day was spent roaming Hyderabad, and Kamal and Sandeep spent many hours ordering tailor made suits for Kamal’s four sisters. After this we struck many a bargain at the 50% off happiness sale at Hyderabad’s biggest shopping mall. It was 10.30pm by the time we realised we were starving, but just then all the food halls were closing. We headed home, lamenting the fact that we had missed all the restaurant timings, when Sandeep had a brain wave. He took us to Hotel Shadab, where Guy had his most favorite byriani in December. The place looked darkened, but inside the leavened breads were still lined up in the hundreds ready for cooking in the tandoor. So we really enjoyed this late night visit to Hyderabad’s best Byriani house.

Friday we all went into town to show Kamal’s father the Birla Temple, made entirely of marble on the hilltop in the centre of the city. From here onto FabIndia, and clothing and homewares store created for the Western audience, which explains the lack of friendliness and service. Sandeep found some organic pasta, and sauces, which we took home for later testing. We then moved onto the government craft emporium LePakshi, which has an incredible range of arts and crafts as well as clothing. Outside the shop as Sandeep was getting us all into the car, Kamal’s father spontaneously grabbed him, and gave him a big hug saying “You’re going to have to get used to this”! It was so sweet. After an afternoons lassi at the Taj Mahal Hotel (not the expensive Mumbai version) we headed back for a much needed rest. Kamal and Sandeep picked up some lovely veg curries with hot breads for out dinner which we ate after a lovely collective meditation.

Saturday was a sad day, as a whole week had already passed, and it was already time for Kamal and her father to depart. In the morning Vimal read more of his incredibly beautiful poems to me, and again I was reduced to tears of joy. Soon sandeep’s parents arrived and we had a lovely time with them. Saumya decorated my hand, in fact my whole arm, in beautiful henna designs, while the families were busy settling the final arrangements for the wedding. Before heading to the airport Kamal placed Sandeep’s newly made engagement ring with her name inscribed, on his finger, and off they went to catch their flight back to England. Sandeep’s mum prepared a light potato and eggplany curry for dinner which we ate before they too caught the bus back to Nizamabad.

It had been a beautiful eventful week, and it had been such a pleasure to get to know Vimal, who is a gem of a personality, that we feel privileged to now know. We already miss the sound of his voice in the mornings, and it is really quiet here now…better get back to dance and keeping ourselves busy again.

I just heard that my class has changed and I have new Teacher for year 5, Mr Conway. Hi Mr Conway. I can’t wait to see you all when I get back to Australia. Hello Lily, Laura, Isobella and Bridgette. Send me a message.

Working in the cramped spaces of an Indian Internet Cafe, one that actually allowed me to connect my laptop.

Searching for an Internet connection occupied me greatly during my time in India. I had to check my email fairly regularly to see if I had any work that needed doing. As we were travelling it inevitable meant searching new places for Internet cafes. Finding an Internet cafe was no guarantee that you would be able to get on. With power cuts and Internet outages it was pretty hit or miss affair. Even if I was in one of the few Internet cafes that would allow me to connect my laptop, as most wouldn’t let me and thought my mac was a security risk!

Anyhow, you can imagine how much I wished I had a dedicated connection. So after I leave India, Lene & Freya get a permanent Internet connection. Lene has just sent these images of the installation guys setting up the Internet in their apartment.

Watermelon Stall on the Roadside

In order for Sandeep to collect his car from the smash repairers, he had to show the registration papers, which had been issued in Nizamabad, and were still with the agent there. So at 3:30am he caught the bus all the 180km, all the way to Nizamabad. They would not give these papers to his father to bring to Sandeep when he visited our new home… Such is the constant battle with bureaucracy in India. So Santosh came to check on Freya and I the morning and brought us some fresh cold milk. We quite enjoyed our quiet day at home, with Freya practising dance and doing schoolwork, and me cooking home cooked food, which is a bit of a treat for us nowadays.

Our Mattress Walla

Lunch was a real hit. We had found in the supermarket a packet of frozen chicken nuggets, and they were cooked up for lunch with the lovely Indian creamy potatoes, mashed of course, and steamed beans to go along. I wish all those friends of ours who we have stayed with (desperately trying to cook something Freya would eat), could have watched Freya lapping up everything to the last crumb on her plate. I too actually really enjoyed the plain flavour of potatoes and beans as well.

By the afternoon things were getting a little quiet, and as I hung some clothes on the line I spotted a sweet looking girl on the verandah across the road. She was keen to communicate, and after a while she said I’m coming over. So 12 year old Mounika was soon at the door, and within minutes she and Freya were striking up a conversation. The girls are now good friends and Freya showed Mounika how to play UNO, which they both enjoyed. Sandeep got back with his new car at 11:30pm exhausted.

The next day, after being house bound for quite some time, we celebrated by going out on the town to our favorite haunts, IMAX, and Hyderabad Central shopping centre. We checked out which movies were on, and then ate a lovely lunch in the fabulous food court – they make the best Bhav Bhaji there! After this onto the shopping centre, where a huge sale was on, and we hunted down some beautiful linen trousers and shirts for Sandeep and Guy. So many bargains it was hard to think. We ended our spree with Chinese dinner in one of the many restaurants… again feeling like we did not need to eat anything for a few days.

Sandeep visiting his best friend and trying on some police gear

Yesterday we met one of Sandeep’s best friends, who has just returned to Hyderabad. He went with us to negotiate for Sandeep over the installation of a new rear spoiler and brake light on his back windscreen. It was fitted within minutes while Freya and I watched from the back seat.

Whilst waiting we found some nice punjabi suit materials for Freya, the deal was buy one get 2 free – which was pretty good, even if the price of the one item was slightly inflated. I thought I might make them up myself, but after discovering their in-house tailor would do it all for $3 per outfit, we quickly went for that option. So Freya went to choose the all important necklines for her tops and in 2 days they will be ready for pick-up.

We had dinner at our local haunt, Hyderabad House which had just about run out of everything, but it was too late to try and find an alternative.

Freya had loads of fun trying on Sandeep’s friend’s glasses, and as we dropped him home Sandeep said he was keeping them – they make anyone look very intelligent. I told him it would be very bad for his eyes, and so I came to discover that they were only a fashion item with plain glass lenses….which was a relief as Sandeep was driving the car with them on!

Freya taking pictures of herself with Sandeep’s friend’s Fashion Glasses – now she wants a pair!

In order for Sandeep to pursue his great passion for dance, without his parents having either money nor influence, Sandeep left his hometown of Nizamabad, to live with a dance teacher at the age of 11. This was arranged in the ancient tradition of Guru Sheysha Paramapara – the teacher/student relationship, where the student serves the teacher, does everything for him/her in return for the guru’s knowledge. So Sandeep stayed in this teachers house being treated really as a servant to this lady, washing clothes, fetching vegetables from the market, cleaning the house, staying at home if she asked, going out if she asked, doing her beck and call. In return for this, Sandeep had in 3 months learnt 3 dance steps – yes that is 3! By this time he was so sick and his stomach was so bad that he would constantly vomit. He was really ill, but his desire to learn drove him on, and he would never telephone his father to complain. So it happened by chance that his father decided to pay him a visit, as he was in town. He was completely shocked when he found Sandeep. He took Sandeep to a hospital which was located on the ground floor of the building he stayed in with this lady. They said to him that his illness was so bad that they could not treat him, and recommended he be taken to a major hospital. One of this teacher’s senior students finally helped him get admission to a good hospital, as this would have otherwise been impossible to afford. After this his father decided to take him home to recover. It took Sandeep 45 days to get well after the time spent in that dance teachers house. But Sandeep’s desire to learn dance still overrode these experiences, and he wanted to return to that teacher. His father pleaded with him not to, and in the end Sandeep very reluctantly gave up returning.

So Sandeep was still desperately seeking a good guru who could teach him well, and in the pure tradition. It so happened that Sandeep then got to meet with a very great dance Guru Sri Nataraja Ramakrishna, who is highly honored by the government of Andhra Pradesh. He has single handedly revived the previously banned temple dances of Andra Pradesh, and renamed the dance form Andra Nathyam. In this meeting he took an interest in Sandeep and asked Sandeep about his financial position as well as his family commitments. Sandeep explained that as the eldest and only son, he would have to provide for his family’s future. So the great guru, with lots of care, gave Sandeep his best advice to try to help him: He said “There is no financial future in dance, so how will you ever support you family from such a career – Don’t do it”. But Sandeep would not hear it and insisted to him that dance was going to be his life. Nataraja Ramakrishna could see that Sandeep was really keen so he made this suggestion to him: “Go and dance in 101 temples in front of the Gods, and then lets see…”. Sandeep told he he would do exactly that.

So Sandeep took a logbook with him, in which he would record every performance, and got each one witnessed by a priest. He danced in many temples all over Andra Pradesh, and sometimes the priests of the temple would spontaneously honor him and award him. In a very auspicious 41 days he completed his performances in 108 temples (Sandeep thought this was a more auspicious number). After that he immediately returned to the guru’s home with the proof. As he waited to see him he could hear Nataraja Ramakrishna talking to his friend about this incredibly determined young man, who was going to sincerely go and follow his request and dance in 101 temples. At this moment Sandeep stepped in, and Ramakrishna was totally baffled that Sandeep was already back, and had more than completed his task. He was overwhelmed and gave him as big hug; he was very moved. He then said “Allright, now you can become my disciple”. Sandeep replied “No thank you Sir, I am sorry, but I want to learn Kuchipudi, I really have no interest in Andra Natyam”. This of course stunned the guru even more.

To this day Nataraja Ramakrishna, who has many disciples, still tries his level best to entice Sandeep to become his disciple, and for him to take the artform of Andra Nathyam into the future. Sandeep and Ramakrishna have a wonderfully loving relationship, and Sandeep is forever grateful for the way in which he came to learn dance in the temples directly from God, and not from any one guru.